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brony guardian
Registered: June 16, 2010
Posts: 287
Reply with quote  #1 

(I wrote 2 reviews of this on a hunting site at 2 different dates. I did not fell like rewrite a review for this so I cut and pasted the 2 together)

 

Well I order this knife on Monday March 05 at 12:45pm from amazon.com for 14.99 and it got here  USPS at 11:01am march 7 (this was standard delivery. I guess because there in GA and I am in FL that why it came so fast).   The knife came wrapped up in paper and oily plastic that took about 1min to clean off.  when I saw the size of this thing and the way it looked the song in a gadda da vida started playing in my head cause this thing is very bad A## looking and I wanted to run outside and start cutting stuff with it . Now I readied some of the reviews about this knife and someone got the alloy tested. Here is what they found out "I tested the alloy and it appears to be about .5% carbon. It may be 1050 to 1060 or could even be one of the more complex alloys like 5160. Any of these alloys are appropriate metals for this type of blade. Depending on the temper, they can all take a lot of abuse. The two "eating knives" that come with it are simply junk. They are very cursory. Poorly formed of heavy sheet metal glued to a block of wood and roughed out on a grinder. Now, here's the weird part. The metal in the small knives tested as high-carbon. I think they are 1080 or something like that"

 

 The knife is a full tang and the handle the handle is constructed of haldina cordifolia hardwood that is riveted onto the blade and ground to shape along with the metal. The butt plate very well fitted and well-polished and is riveting the end of the tang. The blade is very well polished (also very thick) and there’s no machine marks at all on the knife (it has a very handmade look and feel to it, almost like it was made in the jangle somewhere). I have heard about how bad the sheath is for this knife but the one I got is well made and looks just like the Nepal Army Khukuri sheath. Now there was extra dye on it that took about 2min of cleaning with a dry rag to clean off.

(haldina cordifolia hardwood  is an  acid-resistant hard durable  heavy hardwood   wood found in Burma, Cambodia, India, Thailand  and is used for house construction, boat building, and for furniture)

 

 

The knife is heavy and feels right in my hand. I gave it a swing and the control was very good, it was like having a Japanese short sword or wakizashi.  I love this thing and I am very happy with it, it has the looks and feel of a knife of 55 dollars. Now the bad news it’s not very sharp to dull when it comes from bud K. I have readied from other reviews that it's able to hold a razor edge after 1st sharpening so that not too bad. I do own other swords and long blades and I have heard to get them imported into the US they can't be sharp and the dealers when they get them sharpen them. I don't know if this is true or not but many blades I have bought were not very sharp when I got them.  Oh here are the Specifications

 

Overall: 16 1/2“

Blade Length: 11 1/2“

Blade is    1/4" thick.

Handle Length: 5”

Weight: 1lb 13oz

Thickness at Guard: .24

 

 

 

The next few days after I got it I used a wet stone to sharpen this thing did a little research on it and tested it out. Because it was raining and we lost power in our area I only have few pic’s of a test cut so bear with me on this.

 

Ok well to start off as you know I got this on amazon for 14.99, now I did not think it was a "real" Gurkha Kukri Knife but it is. It's a mass made blade that is made in  India out of  very hard and dense carbon steel and this very same  knife is sold under other names and on others sites but it's the same knife, Cas Hanwei  sell  this very same Khukri for 44$ sharpen and http://www.sarcoinc.com  sell this one for 14.99  and other khukri. Now the reason why it's 14-20$(at bud k it 19.99) is that it's unsharpened, when sharpen it sell for 34$(http://kultofathena.com/).  From what I have seen it seem this is the same as the Gurkha Panawal Jungle Kukri that is unpolished and made of rough use. To save money they skip the long machinery process of getting shinned the initial temper and it give a rawer knife, also they use the cheaper cousin of Indian rosewood haldina cordifolia wood. they are  produced  in Indian to armed forces specifications and there sold here in wholesale as an Gurkha Kukri Knife  to make it cost more to the yanks. So it's an India panawal farmer Kukri but made just as well as the Gurkha Kukri Knife. (Don’t believe me? look up a Panawal Rust Free Farmer Kukri and the budK one and tell me there not the same)  really this knife and many other like the Nepal Police kukri and Farmer Kukri are the same knife just they have different woods or blade lengths. They have the same metal and most times the same leather scabbard.

 

 

 

So on to the knife!  I have found many ways to sharpen a kukri. there was the way I was told on a hunting form I am a member of, other people that got this knife told me to use a filing and sharpening with a carbide, and then a ceramic sharpener, gave it a sharp edge, on YouTube under easy way to sharpen a kukri there that way with sandpaper, there is using a lansky puck and then there using a grinding wheel.  I used my Aluminum Oxide Sharpening Stone with some water to sharpen it. I am not very good with a stone and I made the mistake of using the fine 120 grit to sharpen this unsharpened blade and the wrong degree angle and so I scratched the blade some.   It took about 10-30mins to sharpen it on the stone and I used a handheld knife sharpener to clean the edge up a little giving it a sharp edge.  For same reason the inside curve got really sharp and the rest of the blade not so much 

 

Here what it looked like after sharpening

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/020-3.jpg

 

Up close

 

http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/?action=view&current=021-3.jpg

 

 

 

Even unsharpened if you it as a stabbing weapon it will go through a man (pass thought a EZ chair  like it was nothing)

 

I can tell you from sharpening this thing it very hard metal. My 440 stainless steel knifes and other  swords  take on one pass with the carbide hand sharper to give them a shaving edge , even my CRKT M16Z with it AUS 4 stainless steel with a Rockwell hardness of 55-57 it take one pass. This knife after 5-10 pass it did no better than the stone.  Now it’s on to testing and I use 3 tests to see how good it is. The 1st test is the 1 gallon full of water milk jug test and I used me Ninjato as a control for how well it can cut. It gave a rough but good cut and the Ninjato give a very clean smooth cut like butter. Next up was the soda cans cut were I set up soda cans full of water side by side to see how many it can cut  and then toss a few in the air to see how well it does on a moving target. It did better than my other weapons on this and cut the metal cans better than the rest. Now last was the wood cut. Here it did extremely well cutting the down a small tree with 3 hits

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/022-3.jpg

 

As you can see I cut the tree sapling that was about 5 1/2 feet tall in half down the middle of it. I also cut some tree branches off a Javanese Bishopwood with one hit with it and it was the same with the soft wood branches. I try it on a maples tree and it made a small cut on. There was no sticking with the softer woods like pine but when I tried the hardwoods we have around here there was sticking ( oak  and maple  I guess are very hard woods to cut)The wood handle work very well as a shock absorber and even when wet it was easy to hold onto.

 

Here what it looks like after all of that

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/019-1.jpg

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/019-1.jpg

 

 

 

The edge was still very sharp after all of that and I cut up some more jugs with it.  I now know how to sharpen it after some trial and error and really sharp now.  Those scratches are from my stone from the 1st time I sharpen it not from the wood. It best to use a file 1st and then a wet stone but you know live and learn.

 

All in all I would say it's a very good Kukri and in someone’s hands that know how to sharpen it right it will live up to the Gurkha Kukri legends.  One thing, be very careful if you get the belly of the thing sharpen.  I don't know why how it happens but the inside curve got   REAALY sharp and I forget and cut my hand (I had on leather work gloves so it was not that bad).

 

Here is some pic's of things it cut (found some of the stuff after the water was gone)

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/021-4.jpg

 

 

 

This one is about the size of the tree i cut down the middle (it looks taller because i am on a hill)

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/022-4.jpg i start at were the V meet and cut from there.

 

 

 

Up close you can see how thick the tree is http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/023-1.jpg

 

 

 

the  here is a log from the maples tree i was cutting on(the city cut down some of the tree becuase them fell half way down).

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/024-1.jpg

 

 

 

up close of what the knife did to the maple

 

 

 

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/025-1.jpg

 

a palm tree that i tested the knife on http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/rabbitwolf/stuff%20to%20look%20at/026-2.jpg  take note  of how many palm fronds are gone from the top area(it was cut back some already but all the palm fronds on the ground  are from me).

 

also here are some wood stakes that i cut with it.



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